In March, just before the start of Ramadan, a line stretched down the block in Aksaray, a neighborhood in Istanbul known as “Little Syria” for its large immigrant community. Hungry customers eagerly awaited their turn to eat at Chef Omar’s, a newly opened restaurant that has quickly gained a reputation as the city’s best shawarma spot. This restaurant is the latest venture of Omar Abu Lebda, a Damascus-born chef who rose to fame during the COVID-19 pandemic through his popular social media cooking videos.
Despite the restaurant’s popularity and positive reviews, some Syrians have vowed never to eat at Chef Omar’s. Critics claim that Omar is out of touch with Syria’s ongoing humanitarian crisis and allege that he has connections with the country’s controversial president, Bashar al-Assad. Although Assad remains internationally isolated due to sanctions, his government has normalized relations with several Arab states, leading to accusations of using celebrities and influencers to improve his regime’s image.
Syria’s Statistical Efforts to Map Diaspora: Bridging Ministries for Accurate Migrant Data#Syria #Diaspora #Migration #ForeignAffairs #InteriorMinistry #CentralBureauofStatistics https://t.co/sjrbbLeEgY pic.twitter.com/m6etfcnEnL
— Mazhar Abbas (@Mazhar278) March 29, 2024
Chef Omar’s critics claim to have evidence of his pro-government leanings, but Omar denies any links to Assad. Regardless, his rise to fame highlights how deeply political divisions have permeated Syrian culture, even affecting something as universal as food.
Omar fled Syria in 2012 to escape the war, moving first to Sudan and then to Istanbul in 2014, where he trained at a local culinary academy. He gained millions of followers during the pandemic by sharing recipes and cooking tips that resonated with Syrians displaced by the war. His social media presence, with 7.4 million followers on Facebook and 3.5 million on YouTube, has turned him into a culinary diplomat, helping Syrians recreate familiar dishes with new ingredients.
In many of his videos, Omar dresses in traditional Damascene attire, reminiscent of characters from the popular Syrian soap opera “Bab Al-Hara.” He speaks directly to the camera in a warm, engaging manner, using familiar slang that endears him to his audience. His innovative recipes, like making kibbeh with sliced bread or preparing flan on a stovetop, offer practical solutions for Syrians living abroad.
My family was apart of the Syrian diaspora living outside of Syria before the revolution, this is me in December 2011, before heading to school (6th grade) for international day, where everyone wore their traditional clothes and flags! pic.twitter.com/iMSz7afUbT
— Celine (@celinekasem) March 16, 2024
The opening of Chef Omar’s restaurant in March was a significant milestone. The restaurant blends culinary creativity with savvy marketing, featuring branded items and a replica of his cooking channel’s kitchen set. Despite its success, Omar’s restaurant has not escaped controversy. In 2022, he was accused of criticizing a donation drive for displaced Syrians in Idlib while appearing on a pro-government radio station. His comments about the effectiveness of charity work sparked outrage among Syrians online.
Like many public figures, Omar faces scrutiny that is sometimes common among celebrities and other times uniquely tied to Syria’s complex political landscape. For instance, some socially conservative followers were upset that his wife does not wear a hijab. More critically, many accuse him of being “gray,” a term for those who have not publicly taken a stance on the Syrian conflict. This perceived ambiguity has led some to label him as a supporter of the Assad regime.
The arrival of Syrian refugees in Turkey began in 2011, with significant numbers arriving in 2015 and 2016. Polls indicate that most Syrian refugees in Turkey do not want to return to Syria under the current regime. Chef Omar’s decision to stay out of politics has not shielded him from criticism. His silence on Assad’s regime has led many opposition figures to view him unfavorably.
Calls to boycott Chef Omar’s restaurant emerged after allegations that it flew the Syrian government flag, a claim that was not substantiated during visits. The use of the government’s flag is a sensitive issue for Syrians in Turkey, where they face rising xenophobia and increasing deportations. Omar dismissed these allegations as a smear campaign, a defense he has used before.
Today, My own copies arrived. I will not stop studying the Syrian prison until we are liberated from it, in Syria, in our diaspora, and in our identity. #Syrian_Gulag @ugur_umit_ungor. pic.twitter.com/OV4XyXjilp
— Jaber Baker (@JaberBaker1) December 29, 2023
Despite these challenges, some believe that attempts to cancel Chef Omar could hinder efforts to unite and rebuild Syria. His success, they argue, can serve as an inspiration for all Syrians.
“We need people like [Chef Omar] who are successful examples to look up to,” said Nedal Malouf, a Syrian opposition journalist. “His success is our success.”
Key Points:
i. Chef Omar Abu Lebda’s rise to fame amidst the COVID-19 pandemic as a social media chef specializing in Syrian cuisine has led to the opening of his popular restaurant, Chef Omar’s.
ii. Despite his culinary success, Chef Omar faces criticism and controversies from some Syrians due to allegations of being connected with the Syrian government and being out of touch with Syria’s humanitarian crisis.
iii. Chef Omar’s journey from Damascus to Sudan, then Istanbul, showcases the displacement and resilience of many Syrians escaping the war and seeking new opportunities.
iv. The opening of Chef Omar’s restaurant is both a culinary achievement and a platform for political discussions, highlighting the complex intersection of food, culture, and politics in the Syrian diaspora.
v. The controversies surrounding Chef Omar, including accusations of being “gray” on political stances and displaying the Syrian government flag, have sparked boycott calls and debates among Syrians worldwide, reflecting deeper divisions within the community.
Charles William III – Reprinted with permission of Whatfinger News
